Back to Perth

Returning to Perth I signed up for another safari tour.  Went to the nearby town of Freemantle and stayed in a Youth Hostel.  I enjoyed this town and the Hostel so much I could have stayed a long time.  The people were from all over the world and the kitchen smelled wonderful.  We ate outside and spent all our relaxing time outside in the patio. 

 It was a short walk to marvelous markets and the streets were always full of music and entertainment.

I joined my safari tour group (this time 23 people) and we took off for the north part out of Perth. We rode in a 4-wheel drive “tank.” And there is so much  d r i v i n g  to get anywhere.  It was worth it to see such spectacular things.  This was a camping trip and our first camp was a “Bush Camp” and buddy, do I mean Bush.  A zillion miles (or K’s) from civilization and absolutely NO amenities!  We just threw our swag on the ground in the dark – used the nearest bush with some degree of privacy to ‘irrigate’ the terrain.  If you had more serious business, you brought the shovel.  As soon as I found this out, I took a pill that puts a ‘stopper’ in it – no shovel for me please…

The rest of our camps were more civilized caravan parks with toilets that flushed and HOT SHOWERS.  Some even had electric lights.  The evening meal was a joint preparation thing, and of course, you have your ‘workers' and your ”where in the hell did they go people.”  Nevermind the dishwashing and clean up; if any of you saw the cleaning methods and particularly the looks of the ‘tea towels’ we used for drying utensils, you’d puke.  We seemed to fare well, and if you’re hungry and miles from anywhere it’s amazing what you can overlook.

Our guide/driver was great….nice guy and a good sense of humor.  The people in the group were young backpackers from England, Switzerland, Japan, Ireland, Denmark and Germany.

We saw “Pinnacles” –  sandstone formations sticking out of the desert ground.  Eerie and interesting.  Sand dunes that are enormous and we drove over them in that tank vehicle (that was always having mysterious problems when we were in the middle of nowhere, but kept getting started after a fashion, so..)  We went to a secluded beach with icy cold water;  some went right in.  When I asked Phil (the guide) about putting on a bathing suit, he said “good idea.”  I hoped for a little privacy, but I donned my ‘swimming costume’ without privacy and enjoyed the water.

While in this area, we went to Monkey Mia where dolphin come right up to the beach and interact with the people.  All their actions are “food instigated” and not because they care that much for people, but it is facinating to watch.

So many wonderful beaches and our guide in his very Aussie way would say, “amazing, brilliant” – so proud of his Western Australia wondrers.

One stop was a highlight for me.  It was a caravan park with a naturalist explaining the wildflowers.  He had a magnification set-up so we could view on a monitor as he explained and pointed out parts of the flowers and discussed pollination and methods of seeding.  The entire area is usually brown scrub, but at this time of year it was just miles and miles of wildflowers—unbelievable .

After this safari I will leave Perth and go to Melbourne to take the ship “Spirit of Tasmania” for an overnight trip to Tasmania.

Perth and Western Australia

From Adelaide I took The Indian Pacific Railway (2 nights and 3 days journey.)  I am making this trip with “Ruth”  from Warrenbool.   I met her in the Barrier Reef area, and taking this train was something she always wanted to do.  {I was ‘leaving Ruth out of this blog’ until I reread my emails; so she’s in and you’ll see why soon.}

I read this about the Railway.  “The beginnings of this great rail journey started in October of 1917.  A remarkable feat of engineering since two construction teams met from opposite directions, exactly as planned.

“The Indian Pacific is one of the last coast to coast rail journeys in the World.  This amazing train links the mighty Pacific Ocean on one side of Australia with the Indian Ocean on the other, a distance of 4352 kilometres.

“No other journey in the world crosses so many different terrains in one country, from the spectacular Blue Mountains, through the famous green and gold Sun Belt of Australia, past outposts and mining towns, through the red outback and across the world’s longest length of straight railway track through the stark and desolate Nullabor Plan.”

Our room accommodations were very nice; the food was good; and if you wanted to socialize, you had the lounge.  I got to enjoy the room and scenery through the window while Ruth spent most of her time in the lounge. 

Even tho it was desolate and only a few towns, the scenery was wonderful.  We stopped long enough once to go see a working gold mine.  This town had a brothel, complete with the ‘ladies’ sitting in front of their ‘cribs.’  One town had all homes built underground because of the heat—it was difficult to even see the homes.

I was delighted and surprised when we got off the train in Perth—it is a shiny city with tall buildings and a spectacular sight.  Ruth and I went to an outfitter and booked a safari to the south of Perth.  Before that trip, she and I went to Rottenest Island by train and stayed at a Youth Hostel.  We toured the island on bicycles and saw Walloby and so many beautiful birds and wildlife.  She got us lost so many times….that’s when I realized she could get lost in a shoebox!

Now anyone who thinks I am travelling in perfect harmony with Ruth—please stand up.  She’s a teacher, and  “bloody well knows everything!”  Also, she’s a “ditz” and resents any input.  Tell me you’re surprised….

The plans for the Safari include her, but there will be other people and the tour people will take over.  Anyway, she has to return to Adelaide when we get back…ahhh  The safari is in a 4 wheel vehicle and we will be ‘roughing it’ for four days.  The first night out we are staying in a large room in a caravan park (campground).  I asked to drag my swag out on the porch so I didn’t have to sleep with all those people.  The driver joined me on the porch.  On our trip, we saw and experienced so many wonders, I can’t relate them all.  Hope my pictures will tell about it.

  Another night we stayed in a farm cabin in the wilderness.  It had one bedroom and one (1) bathroom and toilet for all 8 people.  I slept on the porch again.  Ruth endeared herself to all by taking her shower in the morning when folks were getting up and couldn't use the bathroom!  She did so many rude, hurtful and inconsiderate things.  The driver/tour guide would tell her to “bugger off” when she had complaints.  By this time we all would have traded her for a dead cat!

I kinda hate to tell you about the flies, but one place they were so BAD, well I would only eat bread out of an unopened loaf....this garment was my "all purpose drape."

We went on a bush tucker tour and were served some of the Aboriginal food . There were nuts and fruit that contained vitamin C, and were very good.  One nut was used to grind up to make a sort of  bread called “damper.”  They had no grain until the Europeans came.
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I was amazed when some of the little Aborigine children as part of the tour, spread mashed grubs on bread, sprinkled it with herbs and stuff and ate it.   Unfortunately the settlers drove the Aboriginals off, shot at them and drove them into the sea to drown.  After our ‘fine meal’ we toured an undeveloped cave.  We all carried torches (flashlights) because it was not lit and the path was wet, rocky and unstable.  I asked to wait outside, and after slipping and landing on my head, my request was granted.  Who wants to tour a dark cave dragging Lydia…

This was one of our
camps and the inside
of our bus.

We were traveling along in this 4 wheel vehicle and rode through a raging river—the driver/tour guide said he knew where to cross and he did.  It was exciting and scary at the same time. 

One evening we loaded in the vehicle, took a searchlight and went looking for kangaroo.  We found lots (or heaps as they say here).  They cared little that we looked on as they grazed.  These were the largest kangaroo I’d seen.  It gets cold at night and we never have heat, unless there’s a bonfire. Cooking was done outside most of the time and pretty good given the circumstances.  I usually helped out with preparation and the night he fixed Tacos, he turned it all over to me.  They didn’t know the first thing about a taco since they were from places all over the world.

An area we drove through returning to Perth is in the midst of much development.  Filling in wetlands, scraping the land of trees and growth for housing; especially with water access for boats….sound familiar?  This whole area looks new and upscale and doesn’t even seem like Australia.

While in the Margaret River area, we canoed to an erie island that used to be where Aboriginals went to “get rid of evil spirits.”  They believed the small holes in the trees held evil spirits, so they sat with their body next to a hole in one of these strange trees and meditated on what they did wrong and waited for the evil spirit in their body to move into the tree cavity.

Our driver/guide was “an old hippi” as he called himself.  He made a trip to the US years ago, bought an old van and drove from California to New York.  Spent 6 months driving and enjoying the US.

Another thing we saw was the Kerri Forest.  Giant trees that were being trampled at the roots, so they built a marvelous walkway up in the sky.  We stopped in many quaint little villages and had time to wander around.

Back to Perth

Adelaide

Adelaide is a beautiful city with wonderful transportation.  I am staying out of Adelaide in a small town on the water called Glenelg.  I come to town on a tram and then ride free city buses all over.

I went on an “O Boun” bus that is like a regular bus but hits a certain part and is on a track that propels it along non stop and needs no steering—very unusual.

Can’t describe my meals, but they are all good no matter where I go; big restaurants, little cafes, anywhere.

I have seen beautiful art and enjoyed museums and a Botanical Garden.  Even went shopping in City Center. 

Glenelg

I asked about visiting a Homestead and went to Tooralie Homestead in Hallet.  A very small town where the homestead owner picked me up at the bus stop.  He said he raised sheep, but the price was so low, he and his wife decided to open this homestead.  It was a beautiful old home with additions and well maintained.  We had three meals a day.  Lunch might be out in the country where he made “Damper and Billy Tea.”  We saw kangaroo, rabbits, wild goats and many birds.

The evening meal was served in the dining room with beautiful china and ‘the works.’  It would be a four course meal, delicious and served with wine.  I had a choice bedroom since I was from “America.”  There were other couples and someone asked our Hostess if she had a book people signed in.  She said she did, but didn’t put it out anymore because a ‘gentleman’ and his lady were visiting and when he looked through the book, he saw “his wife and gentleman companion” signed in!  No matter he had a ‘companion.”

Before leaving, I took a hike up some rolling hills in the back of their property—got lost—found my way back after seeing and experiencing the most beautiful country I’ve ever seen.  The birds were everywhere, almost buzzing me.  Kangaroos just watched me like no one had ever been there.

Back to Glenleg and the beach and all the wonderful shops and restaurants.  Now I’m back to Adelaide to ‘organize’ my trip on the Indian Pacific Train across the Nullabar Desert to Perth.

Going to Uluru

I left Alice Springs with an outfitter to go to this spectacular area.  We traveled over 1,000 k.  I have no conception of how far that is; anyway a very long way into the outback.  Our first stop was to Kings Canyon and my group of fellow travelers (all young backpackers from almost every country I ever heard of).  They went on a hike up the canyon wall and around—I stayed at the bottom and enjoyed birds and beautiful wildflowers. 

Then on and on, stopping often for petrol and necessities; finally winding up at an area with many campgrounds.  Showers and such are in the middle, along with a huge eating tent.

We needed to be close to Uluru so we could be at The Rock at sunrise (the absolute best light to photograph it)  The outfitter had swags for everyone and I think they are the greatest camping item ever.  It’s a  mattress and sleeping bag covered with canvas.  You get ‘in’ it and it’s comfortable and convertible for weather changes.

The best part of that night was going to a section where someone very knowledgeable about the stars and constellations gave a very interesting talk and I finally realized I was looking at a different sky—the southern hemisphere.  The entire sky was vivid and the Milky Way was awesome.  As a matter of fact, I could hardly sleep for looking at the sky.

Uluru is a 'inselberg' (island mountain).  A large sandstone rock formation.  Humans settled in the area over 10,000 years ago and Europeans arrived in 1870.  Uluru belongs to the Aborigines and about 3,000 live in the area.  They own and run the only shops in this area and are educated and very good business people.

We were at the Rock watching the sunrise on that incredible setting.  Some of the young people walked up on the only path they are allowed to use.  I walked the base, and it was wonderful.  I looked like it was ‘on fire’ and I photographed it hoping to capture this magnificent sight.  My pictures are on slides, these pictures are from the web.

We do the long trip back to Alice Springs for me to take the train (The Ghan) to Adelaide.

The train was ok, however, people were more quiet and better behaved on the bus.  It was a pleasant ride and nice to be able to walk around; go to the toilet and to buy a beer.  The scenery was beautiful; farms, sheep and lots of green.

It took a long time to build this railroad and the story is told about the sand shifting and all hands and passengers moving it back on the tracks.  Another story was about a woman complaining to the Conductor that she was about to give birth.  He said "You should have thought about that before you got on."  She replied "I wasn't pregnant when I got on!"

Well on to Adelaide.

ALICE SPRINGS

.....from Northern Territories south

0h, I’d like to tell you one more Kakadu experience. I went to Adelaide River for a “Jumping Croc” cruise. On this >reasonably large boat< they hold a pole out with raw meat tied to it. The crocodiles jump out of the water to get the meat and they are huge! They make our alligators look like wimps. I watched a bridge repair group go into the water around the bridge; they were in cages (like shark cages) to do their work. The Adelaide River is infested with crocs and on the boat we were told where our life jackets were—HOWEVER—they recommended that since the jackets were orange (and the crocs favorite color) that we throw the jacket in one direction and swim in the other.

It was another 20 hour bus trip to Alice Springs. The bus drivers encourage you to sit near enough to have a conversation.  The first time I heard a loud "thump" -- sorry I asked, because we hit a "roo."  Again two drivers so they can trade off. Goods and well, everything is shipped from the coastal towns Port Augusta/Adelaide an incredible distance to the Northern Territories.

ALICE SPRINGS

The geographical center of a vast country

We got into Alice Springs at 5:00 AM. I had breakfast with my bus drivers and the Station Manager. Good conversation and I was told of a good place to stay—walking distance. It’s a Hostel and the bathroom is right next door and I don’t have to share with too many. One night when I got up to go to the bathroom, there was this guy striding down the hall in his jockey shorts (that’s not a complaint mind you). Hostels have kitchens that are shared by all. You pick a space in the refrigerator and another in a cabinet. I have never had anything taken by someone. You prepare your meal, take it to a dining area to eat and then go back to clean your dishes and the space you used. I’ve been offered some very good food prepared by people from various countries. It’s fun to eat with them and attempt to converse. They usually gave me info on trips, outfitters and travel.

Some of my friends here

Before white settlement, for thousands of years, the Aborigines lived on the land. Sad to say the Aborigines were treated the same as  our Native American. I was told some Aborigines prefer to live in the outback the same way their ancestors did—the only people who can survive in this harsh country. The ones staying in settlements are either educated and make a good living, or live like our Indians in poverty and drunkenness.

Alice Springs is the home of the Royal Flying Doctor Service—the outback’s answer to home visits. They have a fleet of aircraft and medical staff and many have been saved over the years. The telegraph station was completed in 1872 and serves this desolate area today. Since many school children live in the outback and only go into a school for a week or two a year, all learning is done at home via mail, TV, radio and now the internet. Some children never meet their school friends, but only see them over webcam.

I took a motorcycle ride with “High on the Hog” motorcycle adventures. We went to the Trephina Gorge in the East MacDonnel Ranges. Here is the only place with the Ghost Gum tree. There’s a guy standing next to one of these trees for perspective.

                                                                                no, I didn't

Flowers growing in this red dirt.  Some
water.  And imagine a grove of these
gum trees.

I didn’t know about the Afgans of Australia and their camels, but in 1866 more than 100 camels were brought to Australia. Since no one knew how to handle camels, many Afghan cameleers as well. The camels were brought in because they could carry loads up to 600 pounds over long distances with little food or water over almost any terrain. Afgans provided almost all goods and services from South Australia to the Northern Territory. The camels outlived their usefulness and were turned loose—there are an undetermined number of feral camel in the outback. The Afgan men married and settled in Australia.

I spent a day in Desert Park; a very interesting zoo with different habitats and mostly birds. On que one of park personnel would go out with ‘food’ held high and wild birds of prey would fly down from the hills and canyon walls to take the food. They live totally in the wild, but come for these treats.

I just love Ausse humor. In the usually dry bed of the Todd River in the September school holidays, they hold a “boat race.” They pick up the boats and run the race. Lots of beer, lots of fun and one year the river did have water in it, so they cancelled the race!

Tomorrow I go with a Camping Safari to Uluru. Another sacred place of the Aborigine and they allow visitors in certain areas.

Goodbye Cairns - Hello Darwin

This is most of the area I traveled.  Yes, I could have gone by air, but it is more costly and this way I got to experience the area and meet people.

Leave Cairns by bus at 2 pm—change several times for a 14 hr bus ride to Mt Isa.  A dismal mining town  where I have an 8 hr. layover.  I will be staying overnight before the next bus ride which is 14 hrs to Tenennt.

Next leg is 20 hrs to Darwin.  Good thing they stop often enough and these Road Stops have coffee/tea and good sandwiches and pastries.

Somewhere into this part of the trip, the bus pulled over

and stopped.  Both drivers (we have to have a relief driver on these long hauls) got out and started tinkering with the engine….after about an hour we were under way again.  The area was so desolate, and  I heard horror stories about waiting 6 hrs for another bus, etc.

The heat is like a bad Mississippi day in August—and this is the best for Darwin. There are young people backpacking all over.  They are from every country imaginable and carry such loads you would not believe.  Backpacker Hostels meet them at every stop and they can stay for $8 to $15  per night in dorms or sometimes separate rooms.  They let this ‘lil ole lady from America’ go along and I was treated very well. 

 About Darwin:

          The settlement in the Northern Territory was just as troubled and violent as elsewhere in Australia, with Aboriginal groups vainly trying to resist the takeover of land on which their way of life depended.

 The road south to the railhead at Alice Springs was surfaced, finally putting the city in direct contact with the rest of the country.  Darwin was attacked 64 times during the war and 243 people lost their lives.

Families were sent to Alice Springs for safety.  Medical facilities were moved away from Darwin and personnel were housed in the outback in tents and makeshift hospitals.

Darwin is very close to Japan. They are very fond of the “Yanks”  for keeping them safe in WWII.

I am leaving tomorrow to see Kakadu.  I will be with an outfitter for 3 days and 2 nights.  We will be camping and they furnish everything and feed me.

 Here’s a little about the Aboriginal culture at Kakadu. 

Kakadu is a cultural landscape shaped by the spiritual ancestors of Aboriginal people during the Creation Time (Dreamtime)  These ancestors or “first people” journeyed across the country creating the landforms, plants, animals,… Kakadu National Park covers almost 20,000 sq kilometers, and includes the traditional lands of a number of Aboriginal clan groups. 

During the ‘monsoon season’ the Aborigines live in the rocky areas.  During that time the elders teach the children about their heritage by drawing on the rocks.  Here’s some of the drawings and the one of a large figure is (to me) just like a petroglyph I saw out West.

This is another part of Kakadu.  These two are a billabog (a small lake filling with water seasonally.)